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Griffon Puppy 101

Idaho Outback Griffons

 Costs Involved and the Art of Flying with Your Wirehaired Griffon Puppy

Food

Your puppy has been fed Diamond Puppy, which was purchased from our local outlet. I prefer the smaller kibble size at this age. By 3 months of age, I will transition the Griffon puppies to a large breed puppy food; my current choice is Diamond. If I notice inconsistent stool, my first choice is to switch to Purina’s Puppy Salmon diet. I will sometimes provide an additional probiotic when necessary. It really seems to work well for some of our puppies. Once the body is fully matured, around 12 months, I will switch to an adult food, currently Diamond Naturals. I appreciate the quality and the coat that this dog food gives our adult dogs. I will give everyone a small bag to take home. If you are switching diets, transition slowly over the course of a week or so. Mix 75% of my food with 25% of yours for the first few days, then 50% each for the next few days, and finally 25% mine with 75% yours for the last couple of days. This gradual transition reduces the chances of gastric upsets when switching diets. I never add anything to the food except water. I recommend buying your pet food from your local vet or outlet and researching your options. Premium foods available have less residue, resulting in fewer stools in your yard, and contribute to dogs’ beautiful coats. They also do not contain food dyes and are not marketed for humans but for dogs.

I remove water in the evening, about 3 hours before bedtime. When I feed twice per day, the second feeding is no later than 4:00 PM, which helps with nighttime potty breaks.


House Training

Your next task will be house training. I prefer vari kennels for this purpose. Look up crate training, which is based on the principle that no normal dog pees or poops in bed. When your puppy is not being watched closely or outside, he should be in his vari kennel. They come to appreciate the safety and security of their “DEN”. Whenever you let JR out of the vari kennel, place him on the grass where he almost always pees, and give him lots of praise. Then play with him indoors. Additionally, after every meal or drink, take him outside to pee, and again, provide lots of praise. I use the vari kennel as his sleeping area at night, at least until he is fully house trained. Practice putting your puppy into the crate even when you are not leaving. I always give a young puppy a treat or a toy filled with peanut butter as a reward for going in nicely. The vari kennel should be small enough upfront to discourage using it as a restroom; you can place a box in the back of a larger crate to achieve this.


Chewing and Biting

Be prepared with chew toys as puppies tend to be mouthy due to teething. Replace inappropriate chew items, such as shoes, with their own toys or rawhide chews. Correct their behavior calmly and matter-of-factly. Consistently teach them not to bite or chew on you by clamping your hand on their muzzle and firmly saying “no.” I use the pinch method, which rolls the Griffon Puppies’ lip under their own canine tooth. When they bite down, they will bite themselves. Apply this method every time, with every person or child, starting from day one.


Jumping

From day one, do not allow jumping on you, your children, or guests. Correct their behavior swiftly and consistently. Teach your children to do the same and teach them the “sit” command. They will soon learn that sitting quietly earns them treats and attention, while jumping only leads to trouble. Remember, if you allow a 12-pound puppy to greet you by jumping, they will continue to jump on you when they weigh 60 pounds.


Training Timing is Everything

There is a magic window of time when teaching tricks to your puppy is quick and easy. Take advantage of this window by buying a training book or enrolling your puppy in Petco’s training class. Look into your local community college for training sessions, and there are also many private trainers available. Puppies are like sponges during this period. As time goes on, their interest in learning may wane, and they may become slower to respond. Basic commands such as sit, stay, down, bark, no bark, kennel, and fetch are important, but there are many more things they can learn.


Socialize

Proper socialization is important for your Griffon. Think of it as acclimating them to a busy world. Griffons can be a little sensitive to outsiders, but early positive exposure to various people and situations will help them develop a sense of self and well-being, enabling them to accept a variety of situations with grace and ease.

So bring them to family reunions, introduce them to and welcome the mailman, UPS, the neighbor’s kids, and even the grumpy guy across the road. Take them to fairs, rodeos, camping trips, and any other events you can. They will become better dogs because of it.


Dog Parks and Public Places

My suggestion is to avoid taking them to dog parks and similar places until they have had their second vaccination and allowed time for their bodies to react to it. Parvo and Corona are serious threats to puppies and should not be taken lightly. By the time they receive their second vaccination, plus a week or so, their immune system should be strong enough to resist these viruses even if they are present. However, be sure to take them to the vet and get their booster shots. Do not set your little puppy down on the floor until they are 3-4 weeks post their first shot. They will have been wormed twice, but the vet will advise you on whether further worming, heartworm prevention, and flea and tick control products are necessary. Heartworm is potentially fatal and difficult to treat, so prevention is easier and more practical.


Submissive Peeing: Learn to Greet Your Puppy/Dog

I am going to write an article because one of our puppy buyers is having some issues with submissive peeing. First, let’s review the wolf pack, which is the first family group of all dogs. In dog language, there are dominant and submissive pack members. In order to survive in the pack, a dog shows submission to have access to food, get attention, and be generally accepted in the family pack. The dominant dog will stare at the lower-ranking member, stand over them, perhaps put their mouth over the other dog, even bite, growl, and generally be much bigger than the lowly pack member. Now, for a moment, think of yourself towering over your puppy, reaching down from above and placing your hand on the top of their head. It may seem very normal, but what if your puppy happens to be a rather submissive individual with little intestinal fortitude? The best way they can show how great and powerful you are is by peeing all over the floor and flopping to the ground. This behavior is very annoying to humans, not to mention a pain to clean up. However, here is the good news: most dogs can be trained out of this behavior, and most dogs, to a certain extent, grow out of it.

Now that you understand the behavior, let’s discuss what to do with your puppy. First off, acceptance and attention are what they crave. There are a couple of approaches you can take. Firstly, just like children, puppies seek attention, whether positive or negative. Yelling and scolding only make submissive peeing more like submissive flooding. So here are some strategies: no fuss, no drama, no high voice, no dominant postures. In fact, this puppy needs to realize that you have no interest in them at all during greetings. The greeting period is the number one time this problem occurs, so usually, once the greeting phase is over, you will minimize the behavior.

The first option is to shift the focus of greetings away from paying homage to you and instead focus on a food treat. Teach the puppy to stand still, waiting for a treat. This diverts their attention from the submissive greeting and redirects it to a task. By the time the task is performed a few times, the greeting phase will be over. This approach should be followed by all members of the family.

The second option, which is my preferred method, is to ignore the puppy. From now on, do not give the puppy a second glance, no greeting, no voice, no attention. Let the puppy settle down and get past that time period. Only reward calm and drama-free behavior. I like to encourage them to stand quietly and allow a belly rub or an upward rub on the chest. Focus the puppy on staying upright, as dogs rarely pee while standing up. Remember, you are the alpha in your pack. Help your puppy gain confidence through training, puppy classes, and tasks that give them a purpose and help them become the well-adjusted puppy they can be.

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